CW-LE: Nantwich

Rest day, and so shortest day's mileage of the walk - not even 3 miles - over Hollins Cross to Castleton.  Practising the art of walking very slow - lovely views back over Hope Valley helped.

Ken (who was also walking the PW south and who I kept meeting up with most days) was due to finish sometime after 2pm today (Sunday), and I was up for a hill run, so in spite of the thunderstorm warning I headed back over to Edale, but running. Without the pack it felt amazing. 

Didn't meet up at the Old Nags Head though, suspect he'd set off and finished early due to forecast, so I enjoyed a pint then an even faster blast back over.  Second run in 6 weeks, no harm done.

Next day was a moderately short walk to Buxton through the Limestone (White) Peak District visiting various Dales...

Cave Dale, Hay Dale, Monks Dale (lush!)

Then Miller's Dale for lunch at the Angler's Rest (where I'd visited 7 years ago doing the same walk) and a chat with fellow walkers, one of which had done an "end to end" in the past, so plenty to talk about!

Then Chee Dale, lovely stuff, stepping stones beneath the cliffs.

Got to Buxton via Midshires Trail before the forecast rain.  

Next day I was following the Dane Valley Way (crossing the Great British Watershed over to the Western side for final time).

Over Axe Edge Moor then down via Gradbach Mill (coffee, pasty & cake), then Dane Bridge Brewery too soon after..

Ditched the right of ways and took to lanes to get to Congleton due to overgrown paths (bracken, nettles, brambles, thistles, and then cows with calves).

Today (Wednesday) was a tough one - almost dreaded this as lots of road walking to try get towards Welsh Border and Offa's Dyke Path over next few days.

The Trent & Mersey Canal provided some respite from traffic.

But then it became an Urban walk through Crewe (KLF's It's Grim Up North playing in my head) and eventually ended up in Queen Park (manicured & gated) then stress-free bikepath to Nantwich but my feet were aching with the 20+ miles of hard surface pounding at speed.  

Nantwich is a gem.  Especially the crooked "crown hotel" where I'm staying, all the floors, walls and stairs sloping at various angles, love it!

CW-LE: Pennine Way Leg Finished

Leaving the Silent Inn near Ponden, it was a mild sunny day and I felt very relaxed in spite of having nowhere booked for tonight, wild-camping most likely.

Kept a mellow pace as wild-camping means pitching late and leaving early.  Really enjoyed the ambling along over Withins Height and along by the reserviors towards Hebden Bridge, which the PW skirts around to the N and W.

Had a flawed plan of topping up my water and grabbing a meal and a pint at White House Inn, late, before finding a spot to camp.  Flawed because I arrived there at 2.30pm and it was shut until 5:30pm.  Luckily the door was open and they gave me water.  

Resumed the mellow plod over Blackstone Edge, and just before the M62 I met a mother and daughter doing the pennine way N and also planning to wild camp.  

Ended up being a large day (27 miles) before I finally sat down at 7.45pm to wait about a mile S of Standedge.  Was hard to get out of sight of farms etc but decided the Black Moss Reservior looked good once all the MTBers and dog walkers had gone.

Next day was cool and cloudy, but lovely.  

Short day to Crowden Campsite.  Their shop was shut so as it was so early decided to run down to Hadworth (about 4 miles) down Trans Pennine Trail, grab a beer and get something to cook tonight and fuel for tomorrow.

Unicorn Brewery Hopp best of the trip yet (so I had 2).  Enjoyed my run, my groceries survived but had kept it gentle as it had been weeks since I last run.  It felt good tho!

Rough night as selfish campers talking loudly till 1am, rest of the site had been quiet since 10.30 but I was unlucky to be next to them.  Then the morning was partly spent cleaning guano off my tent (why did they put me in the trees with the bat boxes!?).

Final PW day today was a rapid one over Bleaklow and Kinder Scout to Eadale.  Straight to the Nags Head (official end of the PW) for beer and food.

CW-LE: The Silent Inn, Ponden, Howarth

A lovely day's walk, never high up but very up-n-down, in a nice way (flat is boring).

High "cow factor" today, they were all fairly mellow, as was the bull.

The Hare and Hounds at Lothersdale was amazing, totally refurbished and spotless compared to when I passed thru 7 years ago.  Felt rude to walk by without supping a pint of Landlord in the beer garden with its lawn that I thought was astroturf until I looked closer.

Then onwards to Ikornshaw where I'd stayed 7 years ago, got a phonecall from mate Martin, the 10th place male WHW finisher, buzzing, was so good to hear from him and about how the day had been a dream ultra run full of emotion, joy, friends and camaraderie.  I didnt notice that I was climbing steeply up Ickornshaw moor during and after that call!

Arrived at The Silent Inn (originally called "The Eagle Inn" but possibly renamed as a result of Bonnie Prince Charlie staying on his retreat to Scotland and the locals staying silent).

Staying here tonight, loads of veggie options. 

CW-LE: Half-way! Gargrave

Thunderstorms didn't strike, only got about 10 mins of rain as I crossed from Hawes to Horton-in-ribblesdale, clapping the leaders of the Summer Spine Race through.  Was so happy to see Chris at Holme Farm Campsite, last time I was there 7 years ago he was 89 years old and still jumping on his mower and tidying up the site.  "Aye, am now 96," he says, "still getting older each day."  Awesome.  "kept me prices the same too."

Local pub didn't open so a few of us jumped on train to Settle to get food & a pint.  Back by

7.30pm.  Never been to Settle before, looked nice, as was its station.

Next day was a long one, and very early start to dodge worst of weather.  Also missed out Pen-y-ghent from official Pennine Way route as I wasn't doing PW anyway (and been up there when I was!), made good progress over Fountains Fell, was pouring down by Malham Tarn and so once down to Malham I was keen to get coffee and cake.   Old Barn Tea Room provided that nicely!  

Then a short but soggy tramp down through wet fields of cows, by river and over a final rise (and more cows) to Gargrave, where I had a hotel room booked and was ready to celebrate reaching half-way with a 3 course meal and some NZ Sauv Blanc.  Feeling tired and in need of sleep now though.

CW-LE: Hawes

A bit cooler, sky looking moody, much more pleasant for walking, actually felt too cold by the time I got up to Tan Hill Inn, England's highest pub, where I kept with my own tradition of having 3 pints of Black Sheep whilst watching the WHW race unfold via the trackers website.  When I looked earlier this morning I could see it must be warm up there...

No signal at Keld so I had a wee dram (thanks Lucy) roughly when I guessed my mate would be finishing then slept well as rain came down.

Short "rest" day over Great Shunner Fell to Hawes, only about 11 or 12 miles.  Rain happening around, but I only got a brief splattering!

Enjoyed a very mellow pace, forecast looks iffy for overnight so managed to book myself into Hawes YHA, thunderstorms-a-brewing.

Good to revisit the "Dreen Gragon" pub at Hardraw after Great Shunner Fell. 

Energy levels very low today - in a good way.  5 weeks into the walk now, each day has its own personality, all good so far.

CW-LE: Middleton-in-Teesdale

Still buzzing from a surprise visit from Lyndsay and Linda (cousin & aunt) I left Alston following Pennine Way down to Garrigill on what felt like the hottest morning yet.  So chose to stick to PW and go to high ground over Cross Fell etc to Dufton, averaging faster than 3mph because I'd unfortunately put myself under pressure by booking a table for 6pm at the Stag Inn.  Ended up arriving about 2.30pm because I was enjoying myself and wanted to get tent up & showered then into cool of pub that open at 4pm.  Another lovely place, pub and meal.

Then another 20+mile day up to High cup Nick, Caudron Snout waterfall and down by the beautiful River Tees to Middleton.

Glad I got there fairly early as the heat whilst walking to co-op at 4pm to restock felt quite intense, even the breeze seemed to heat you up.

CW-LE: Alston

Another hot day (hottest yet, 27degC) walking to Bellingham but there was a nice breeze on moors - baking by the time I was in town where I arrived 2pm, no point in putting tent up (the sun's bad for it) and so sat outside the Rose & Crown and drank beer and chatted with others enjoying the foreign-import weather.

Ended up cooking at campsite, got laundry done, early night.  Cold morning!  Midgies biting so packed quick, walked to co-op for still-warm chocolate croissant and maple & pecan pastry breakfast!  Was nice to be back on Pennine Way, memories from 7 years ago

Long day in heat, was struggling until Hadrian's Wall but the up-and-downs suited me and I felt energised!  Water tap at carpark by Cawfield's Quarry still there, thank God.  Eventually got to Holmhead where I was booked to camp.

Shower was cold - no complaints today.  Then down to Greenhead Inn for the best food of the trip yet...

Was walking by 8, honesty box flapjack for brekkie, then off up Blenkinsopp Moor and on to Slaggyford, eventually Alston 2pm and so glad to arrive to this at Cumberland inn...