CW-LE: Arrived home

Gorgeous weather!  Left Spean Bridge 8.30am Monday morning and had a relatively huge day's walk along a short bit of East Highland Way then through the Lairig Leacach to Loch Treig, under west-highland-railway-line, around Loch Corrour, met my ex-boss and family on their walk to Corrour! 

Nearly camped high at the ruin of Corrour Old Lodge, huge views, but after eating dinner early (midgie-avoidance) I chose to head on nice and relaxed for a few miles to slightly lower altitude, camping by a river, watching sunset (after which midgies started attacking).  Then woken by the most bizarre noise.  Like a cross between an angry cat and a whiplash.  With some wierd rythmic coo-ing going on.  4.30am enough was enough and crept out tent to see what it was.  Black Grouse with its tail fanned white.  But lots of them - guessong this was a lek in progress.  The aggressive sounds were males and the cooing was the female.  Will have to fact check that!

Tuesday dawned gorgeous - no wind, but far too cold for midgies.  Walked very relaxed down to Rannoch Station road and headed East to Bridge of Gaur, barely any traffic.  Left road at Bridge of Gaur to head South, aiming fairly directly for home but with a hefty 750m pass of wild-walking to do to get into Upper Glen Lyon (not an easy glen to reach!).

Found a barely-used (and not maintained) track through lovely mixed woodland up the Eastern flanks of Gharbh Mheall and Meall Bhudhie (which was Finn's first Munro).  Leggy-heather bashing but the hard work was paid for by the lush dell with oak and Scots pine.

Was overlooking Glen Lyon by 12pm, and descending into it the temperature became fairly unscottish, the smell of hot pine trees reminding me of holidays in the med!  Road walked down to Moar farm where I could cross river, trying to dodge lambs and ewes whilst ascending diagonally towards Meall Ghordie and the pass on its Eastern side. 

When I got there I felt very relaxed and satisfied with the journey and the fact I was kind of in familiar "home territory".  Camped above Glen Lochay Tuesday night, high again to avoid bracken.

Then today was simply a case of walking down to Glen Lochay, Killin, then home, where I arrived by noon.

Great start to the epic walk, each additional day is a bonus...

CW-LE: Spean Bridge

Left Cluanie Inn before 8.30am after a simple breakfast (avoided the hot buffet stuff) and strong coffee.  Cold, strong wind blowing in rain from the West, but intermittent so no bad.  Headed S over edge of South Shiel Ridge down and across R. Loyne, then another pass over to Glen Garry.  Bleak.  Least fave day so far but at least the bit after South Shiel Ridge was all new for me. Road walking then tough going swampy stuff for more miles than I'd have liked, but only to end up spending hours on forest track.  First proper struggle of the trip but eventually got to White Bridge near Invergarry and (slowly) ascended to Faichemard Farm campsite and what a gem of a place to arrive.

Huge showers and facilities. 

Woken up 5.30am by caravan/car & slidy campervan doors, so gave in, packed up, midges were terrible whilst packing tent, headnet invaluable.  Walked down Great Glen Way (once I got to it), pretty boring at first but got better and better as views opened up. 

 Arrived at Spean Bridge and went straight to Old Station Restaurant for a couple pints of Snowgoose and a veggie lasagne.

First niggles noted - right foot sore from all the hard surface and IT band aching too so ibuprofen for first time tonight.

CW-LE: Arrived at Cluanie Inn

Sorry for lack of pics, just using this blog to post progress updates for those interested (or worried!).  After walking to Strathcarron on Wednesday with fine views of the Torridon Mountains from high up the Southern side of the glen, and via Bealach Ban, Thursday was another settled day weather and mind wise!  Walked East to Loch Calavie then South past Maol Bhuidhe bothy to Glen Elchaig, then at Carnach turned South up a steep trail by a fab waterfall (not the falls of glomach but further east), kept walking into early evening until I found a campspot.  Fairly high up at 400m but the wind disappeared and still no midgies!  One of the most peaceful nights so far.  That long day meant a short/moderate 14miles down to Glen Affric then South over a gentle but swampy pass to Cluanie Inn where I'm staying tonight (if they let me 😆).

CW-LE: at Kinlochewe

Set off Monday (yesterday) from where I left of at Inverlael, over Dundonnel Peninsula to Corrie Hallie by An Teallach (no i wasn't "bagging" that, did that with four mates and a hangover about 25 years ago), missed the path to Shenavall Bothy but got there eventually via the Strath, then new territory for me again heading SW around Beinn Dearg along an awesome stalkers' path over to Carnmore Cottage where I camped with. a nice view over Dubh Loch.  Woken up 3am by snipes drunming their wings near the tent.

Head photo in last proper blog post before CW-LE shows exactly where I was.

Today walked South over pass to Letterewe then what felt like a very long walk down Loch maree (was pretty, but I was tired) then on to Kinlochewe, arriving 2.30pm, buying a pile of junk food from shop, pitching tent at campsite, shower then hotel for local ales ( 3 course meal) all good.

Tomorrow heading to Strathcarron, hopefully can pitch-up there.  Plan to start heading a bit more East from there...

CW-LE: Arrived at Inverlael

Finally started the walk Sunday 14th May, chilly and damp start walking from Durness campsite down to ferry then shoogly bus to Cape Wrath to start proper.  Weather improved as day went on, camped at Sandwood bay after a short day (breaking in gently!)

Next morning headed inland away from main Cape Wrath Trail routes, pathless but lovely, then easy track into Strath Dionard, enjoying sunny views of Fionaven from below where I met first other walkers encountered today.  Camped W of Loch Dionard

nice and calm when I pitched but wind became wild, had to rotate tent in-situ, rough night, repegging guy ropes at midnight.  Lesson learned.

Tuesday was perfect.  Up over shoulder of Fionaven and by arkle on a pass toward Achfary

Weather forecast for Weds looked stormy, so took advantage of good weather and headed a few mile further than planned to Glencoul.  Next section has very little shelter and wind and rain due to arrive afternoon.

Next morning was packed and walking by 6.15am, crossing probably the roughest ground of entire trip east of Ben More Assynt, but glad I went this way as I'd already walked the other option 2 years ago with Finn.

Got down to lower ground and found idyllic campspot in a meadow in trees, wind sounded like jet engine but was dead calm around tent.  Other C.W.T. walkers arrived to camp in shelter, not surprisingly given they faced same situation!

Next day opportunity for first proper cooked meal in 6 days, at Oykel Bridge Hotel, 10 miles away.  Got there before 1 pm and Lunch menu only but soup and sandwich easily beats dehydrated food. 

Weather forecast looking good for tomorrow so going to head up Seanna Bhraigh en-route to Inverael.

And so today crossed Seanna Bhraigh, first "new Munro" for me in years!  Awesome corrie below (no photo - battery limit after 6 days).  Arrived at Inverlael 12.30pm, got lift from dad, and now going to enjoy a couple days rest and indulgence

Cape Wrath - Land's End

Test post - ressurecting this blog for those that are interested in following progress of an attempt to backpack (mostly self-sufficient) from Cape Wrath to Land's End...   Thanks!  And maybe see some of you on the trail 😀