Southern Upland Way: Wanlockhead to St. Mary's Loch

Distance: 40.7 miles (65.5km) Ascent/Descent: 1750m/1920m
Start/Finish: Wanlockhead - Tibbie Sheils Inn
Terrain: 'Real' hill-running in places (i.e. bog, pathless, gradient, higher summits), some rough trails, but a lot of easy running (road/forest track) too.
Transport: SPT/Stuarts have a good service No30/31 to Wanlockhead from Lanark Station. There's no regular Service to St. Marys Loch (see note below).
Route: Route Map/Profile | Garmin Course
Southern Upland Way Stages: Prev [1] [2] 3 [4] [5] [6] Next

Summary
This is a tough 40 mile section along the way. It doesn't just have a bit of everything, it has a lot of everything! Of interest is the fact it contains the highest point of the route (Lowther Hill 725m), and also crosses Scotland's Watershed - the true West/East divide. If like myself you're running the S.U.W. over multiple stages, an easier alternative (with public transport servicing the termini) is to split this section at Beatock/Moffat, and then run Beattock to Traquair another day (13 miles beyond Tibbie Shiels).

Blog
Going against the grain of my previous two outings on the Southern Upland Way, I chose to go West to East this time. A generally iffy forecast with gale-force winds made it clear which way would be more enjoyable. I also wanted to finish this in daylight, and tackling the Lowther Hills first, whilst fresh, made more sense.

I felt the usual pre-run excitement as I parked up in Wanlockhead. I got the feeling my dad didn't envy me as I leaped out of the car into the breezy February air (it wasn't the sort of day you can just "step" out of a car!). He was off geocaching down the old road towards Moffat, and we'd arranged a rendezvous point at an old bridge somewhere past Moffat around 1:30pm.


Wanlockhead deserves much more attention than it got from me today. I was on a bit of a mission here, by choice, it was going to be a tricky balance between running gently enough to enjoy my day and appreciate the surroundings, and also getting to the pub before darkness (now there's incentive!). Sure I had my new Myo headlamp with me but that's not the point.

The route starts climbing immediately from "go", and so I warmed up nice and quick and found myself very quickly in "the zone", a nice rythym going up to the summit of Lowther Hill with its military golf ball on top. Then it was into cloudy lonliness down the otherside.

As the cloud rolled back I got a nice view down the jaws of a fairly dramatic-looking pass which I've since learned to be "Dalveen Pass" on the A702 above Durisdeer.

I would eventually meet the A702 once the way had done a big-dipper over another "Lowther" hill, turn NE along a squelchy ridge then drop down to a farm. A short section of the way follows this road, but traffic is light, there's plenty of room, and actually I enjoyed stretching the stride out for a bit. Then back off into rough land to cross a river and pick up an easy flat trail, eventually track, towards Daer Reservior.
The route seems to have changed since my map, the marker posts now guide you up onto the dam, all very pleasant, then straight up the steep hillside which took me completely by surprise! The route arcs over rounded, windswept slopes to 561m Hod Hill, taking the line of a fence. Again the going was squelchy (although there were flood warnings across Scotland this weekend after a stormy few days), before dropping steeply into Ae Forest. I just wanted to enjoy charging down the hillside, which I did at first, but unfortunately it got tricky lower down with up to several inches of mud/water and fallen trees to negotiate. At certain points the Way could have been mistaken for a burn. Welcome to Dumfries and Galloway!

I passed the sign for a bothy (Brattleburn)- hidden somewhere up in the trees off the route I guess, then another climb up a fire break but never steep, and even with all these trees around I could sense civilisation was near. (See picture of bridge - the Southern Upland Way is the river on the left). Soon I came upon a nature-trail way-marker, then some walkers on it, then finally a carpark at the top of Crooked Road.

That section had been tougher than I thought so I was a fair bit behind schedule for meeting up with my dad at 1:30pm. I hate schedules - they should be banned at the weekend! Anyway, I picked up the pace and to be honest enjoyed doing so, it was downhill tarmac with great views over Annan Dale and Moffat. I could already hear the M74. It felt good to get past the M74, and onto a nice lane, another unexpected hillock, then some very pleasant riverside running to Drumcrieff Bridge where my dad was waiting, but thankfully not for too long as I'd arrived on time!
Flask of tea, and loads of junkfood that I could induldge in guilt-free. 20miles to go, again into new territory, and looking forward to it.

It became immediately apparent on departure that I'd been a bit greedy at the car, and my stomach was having to work as hard as my legs. It is a sustained uphill into the forested hillsides anyway, so I just settled into a slow plod for a bit.

There's a lot of forest around these parts, a lot of lonely, hilly, misty wet conifer forest. Hello, is there anybody in there? No other walkers/runners/cyclists that's for sure. The hills seemed to have huddled around me and there didn't seem an obvious way out that didn't involve a lung-busting climb.

The scenery improved significantly as a waymarker put an end to the forestry road and took me onto nice grassy singletrack beside a tumbling burn, progressing out of the trees and into a wonderful den of steep hillsides at the head of Selcoth Burn. Probably my favourite part of the day's run (see title photo) it wasn't long before I was at the East/West watershed, marked by a fence, a style, and a sign welcoming me to the Scottish Borders (and Dumfries and Galloway for those heading the other direction).


Then down to another bothy, a very tidy looking and accessible bothy, before reaching the top of the tarmac road that I'd be following for about 7 miles down the glen of Ettrick Water. It was pleasant enough to run down this - probably a bit of a drag to walk - and the only car to pass me was when I was 100m from the style that would take me back Northwards up into the hills for one last time, just five miles to go to that pint by the loch.

I managed to keep a shuffling run up the steep hillside, then a nice track was reached that followed a very pleasant, gently-angled gully N towards Scabcleuch Moss (now there's a name!). With over 35 miles in the legs I had finally descended into "just get there" mode, yet I must have been paying attention because I took quite a few photos (unless they were just excuses for a rest). As usual there was one final dip and rise to negotiate before reaching the top of a dirt road that descended to the loch and the well-earned pint of Guinness.

Other Southern Upland Way Stages: Prev [1] [2] 3 [4] [5] [6] Next

Southern Upland Way: Lauder - St. Marys Loch

Distance: 39 miles (62km) Ascent/Descent: 2200m/2100m
Start/Finish: Lauder to Tibbie Sheils Inn
Terrain: Excellent mix with sustained high-level running on good trails, heather/grass, some forest track, some riverside/lochside, only a couple of road miles!
Transport: First Buses serves Lauder (start), Innerleithen (for Traquair, 27mile fm start), and Gala/Melrose (14/10mile fm start). No regular service for St. Mary's Loch (see note below)
Route: Route Map/Profile | Garmin Course
Southern Upland Way Stages: Prev [1] 2 [3] [4] [5] [6] Next

Summary
A delightful and again varied run with extensive views (on the right day of course). It is a long day though, so a better option (esp. if trying to use public transport) might be to finish at Traquair (27miles) and jog down to Innerleithen for a pint and a bus back to Edinburgh. That means you can come back another day by bus and run Traquair - Beatock/Moffat (regular buses both start/end).

Blog
Another perfect Winter's day for a run along the Southern Upland Way. I'm lucky in that my dad shares my passion for the outdoors, so we tend to set off on these adventures together, he'll go walking and geocaching whilst I go running, and we each have a set of keys for the car.

Today we had an early start from Lauder - the days are short at this time of year! The route climbs immediately up onto high grazing with nice views back over town. Then a more Southerly course through fields, along tracks and views of the Eildon Hills ahead.

I saw a lot of other runners this morning - certainly a great location for it. After about 8 miles of easy running the route drops down into the Tweed valley.

On reaching the river bank, the S.U.W. takes you downstream for 3/4 mile to a footbridge before returning back up the other bank beside Melrose.

Then folows some flat cycle-path running along an old railway line almost as far as Galashiels, so its almost a relief when the way markers take you up a sharp hill providing a great vantage point of the surrounding countryside (bench included!) before dropping you into the top of town.

At Galashiels I took a short detour down to a Retail Park, feeling just a tad out-of-place in my mud-caked legs, shorts and running-top walking through the isles in search of sugary food and drink. It was a nice to escape back out onto the hillsides, greeted by a few dogs and shortly after their owners, the trail then returning back down to the Tweed and crossing an old bridge before adopting a more W bearing.

The scenery continues to change, now climbing on good runnable paths into Forest and then above onto moorland, eventually climbing up to the summit of the Three Brethens. The view is worthy of the effort to get up there.


And so continues this high-level (arguably one of the best) sections of the Way, just a couple of short boggy patches but all very runnable as it gently turns by a succession of hilltops, including the shoulder of 560m Minch Moor, before descending steeply down to a carpark at Traquair.

It started to snow as I ran along the near-deserted B-road, and with only 12 miles to go I didn't mind. Fueled by smarties and pepsi I enjoyed the next section as much as the first, climbing back onto moorland and wondering which way the path would take me.

There's a long descent into forest, where I caught my first glimpse of the destination - St. Marys Loch. Having now done nearly 70miles of the Way I knew there would always be one-last-rise before any chosen destination! The route drops to a pleasant Glen/Farm setting before crossing a footbridge then climbing back up the otherside, over a wee dell, then gradually heading for the last pass of the day with St. Marys Loch now immediately afore.

I knew the final 3 miles were flat, so decided to pick the pace up and finish strong, visualizing a nice pint of beer in Tibbie Shiels, and staying the night. Neither happened as the rooms were shut for Winter renovations, what a pity!

Icy reflections on St. Mary's Loch

Southern Upland Way Stages: Prev [1] 2 [3] [4] [5] [6] Next

Southern Upland Way: Cockburnspath - Lauder

Distance: 32.3 miles (52km) Ascent/Descent: 1870m/1780m
Start/Finish: Cockburnspath to Lauder
Terrain: Nice variation, mostly easy running
Transport: Perrymans Buses serve Cockburnspath from Edinburgh, and there's a good service back to Edinburgh from Lauder (First Buses)
Route: Route Map | Garmin Course
Southern Upland Way Stages: 1 [2] [3] [4] [5] [6] next

Summary:
This section of the way is packed with variety - from coast to moor, roads, fields, but always easy running and nice open views of a very pleasant part of the country. Note: route is totally rural - no shops.

Blog:
Until now I've made the mistake of assuming the trail-running season lasts from about March to October. The crazy December of 2010 would back this up! However it is now clear to me that some of the best days of the year to be out on the trails can occur in the midst of Winter - I'm thinking bright, frosty, still, yet no midgies (!) and the boggy bits are rock solid. That's almost how it was when Lucy and I ran this section of the Southern Upland Way.

Cockburnspath - now there's a place I'd never been to. Well I have now, that's the starting point (or the end of the Southern Upland Way for most). We made good use of the local shop before heading off towards the coast.

It was nice to take in a couple of miles along the cliff-tops before descending to Peas Bay and starting to head inland up a nice den, all very pleasant running. We did have to cross over the main east-coast line and the busy A1, then up a lane onto higher ground and grazing country, views opening out of the surrounding rolling hills. Lots of running through fields, hopping styles, and waymarker spotting (the route is very well signposted). Dropped down to Whiteadder Water and the hamlet of Abbey St. Bathans where a hunting party was getting ready to set off.

From here there's a very pleasant run up a glen and through the trees before more rolling hillsides and views. Although the route is always at modest altitude it does have its fair share of ups and downs along the way - which was fine for us, we didn't come here for a boring flat run.

After Longformacus, another small hamlet, there's a couple of miles of road-running along a lane which gains height easily up to the Watch Reservior, and so the scenery changes yet again as we climb up into moorland with extensive views of the Chieviots and border hills.

The highest point of the run (shown) is the Twinlaw Cairns at 447m, followed by a nice prolonged and gentle descent. But there's still plenty more to see as the route drops down into hidden, shallow dells of Blythe Water. Be prepared for a few cheeky climbs towards the end of this run before reaching Lauder. Also be prepared for the temptation of a few cheeky pints on arrival to this great wee place, or just settle for coffee and cake like we did.

Other Southern Upland Way Stages: 1 [2] [3] [4] [5] [6] next

The Minigaig Pass

Distance: 29.5 miles (47.5km) Ascent/Descent: 1160m/1260m
Start/Finish: Kingussie to Blair Atholl
Terrain: 70% gravel/surfaced road, 30% Remote moorland, bog, sometimes pathless
Transport: train stations at start/end. citylink bus services both places
Route: Route Map | Garmin Course

Summary
This route isn't dramatic by any means, but would appeal to those who seek wild, remote country, and a bit of a challenge of course. If running, forget about it until Summer/Autumn. I've read that in Winter it is a much more serious undertaking as the 880m pass is likely to be deep under snow. Even in Summer, there isn't much evidence left that this once served as the main route North to Inverness! The route crosses high featureless (and somewhat pathless) moorland which I'd imagine is probably more often in cloud than not, so navigation skills essential.

Blog
Forecast was for the low cloud to gradually clear during the day, and a freshening N wind - perfect. I drove up to Blair Atholl station, bought some supplies at the wee shop then sat in the sun waiting for the train, really excited about the day ahead. Disembarked the train at Kingussie and started running immediately E away from town and past the Ruthven Barracks along a road. The road was quiet, but it was still nice to escape the tarmac via a gate on the right, heading off on a track through the heather towards Glen Tromie.

Once around the corner and down into Glen Tromie, my route rejoined a narrow road, no traffic, providing me with a fast route into remote country.
After 9 miles the tarmac finishes and on top of a steep rise I stopped to look South straight down into Gaick Pass. Scenically this looks more impressive than Minigaig due to its gouged-out features, and would be a great option for a cyclist. But today I wanted a wilder route, and got it a bit more than I expected at first - the gravel road finished at a weir and I was either bashing through heather along rabbit-runs or squelching in the marshy river-course. After a few minutes I got fed up and clambered up the steep bank, clawing at the heather until onto the flatter ground above, and was delighted to find myself on a bit of a trail. I soon lost the trail and ended up back down by the river, making very slow progress jumping burns, one eye on the Garmin navigation screen which had me heading up the Minigaig direction before I realised it.

Although not particularly steep, it was quite hard work, especially at first. Eventually I did get onto what resembled an old drove road, but it kept disappearing into bog and not re-appearing on the other side. I was quite happy though, I took a couple of breaks to really enjoy where I was, there was a nice feeling of wilderness here. Cloud was scudding the hillsides a little above me.

Higher up the route becomes more obvious for a mile or so. It was a nice moment to reach the summit and see blue sky appearing around. Although the route disintegrates once again, there are tiny quartz cairns marking the way down to an idyllic high camping spot (see heading picture). From there the trail improves significantly, and is an enjoyable undulating run for a few miles before descending steeply into Glen Bruar.

I've walked the estate road down Glen Bruar in the past and found it a bit of a drag, but it does make for very fast, enjoyable running.

When I got down to the ford with only 5 miles to go I stopped and had a wee chill-out. What a great place to be on a warm sunny day. After hammering down the glen my legs were a bit slow to get moving again, uphill at first as the way takes a more direct line for Blair Atholl. The reward is a fun final few miles down into the trees above Blair, past the castle, and back to the station.