CW-LE: Cape Cornwall and the (Land's) End

Yesterday evening I hiked up to the chimney that sits atop of Cape Cornwall (pictured above), sat on a bench, and thought to myself "whatever happens tomorrow, at least I can tell myself I've walked from Cape Wrath to Cape Cornwall".

The weather had remained unsettled, but there was one stunning day amongst it (Tuesday) as I left Newquay having set myself up for a fairly ambitious day to get to Cambrose, 2 miles inland from Portreath.  Maybe the rest and all the fresh fruit I had been eating at Newquay had done me good, but the walking was both easy and enjoyable - right from when I crossed the Gannel inland from the coast.  My garmin logged 22.5miles and 860m ascent that day, yet it seemed tame compared with many of the previous day's walking.

The benefit of this big day was a much easier walk to get to St. Ives the following day which was unpleasantly wet with a cool headwind.  With only 1 full day's walking left to get to Land's End YHA, 5.5miles from the "finish line", I felt like celebrating and went into town - which was heaving in spite of the horrible weather.

Having read the SWCP guide the next morning (yesterday), which stated that part of my planned walk for the day was "one of the toughest sections of the SWCP", and given I had a late start taking advantage of the fab breakfast at the B&B, it turned out to be a much more enjoyable day of wild rugged coastline with gentle drizzle and mist moving in, I felt quite at home with the bouldery terrain and the only problem I had was not carrying enough water for the day and having to ascend to Pendeen via a cow track through the bracken.  2 pints of Cornish Ale and water later I headed back down through the Geevor Tin Mine and a landscape of ruined mining buildings, prettier than it sounds, and got to Cape Cornwall around 6pm when the sun appeared and changed the whole mood of the day!  The drizzle returnes during my short walk from there to the YHA where I was booked to camp outside.  Andy and Bella walked down from their Campervan and we shared some chilled wine in the rain!

Packing up the soggy tent for last time, I realised I was glad of the fact and well and truly ready to finish.  The final 5.5 miles were walked with great care - obviously I didn't want to break a leg or fall off a cliff anyway but especially not at this time.

Arriving at Land's End would have been an anti-climax had it not been for Andy and Bella turning up to see me finish.  They had with them a mini bottle of fizz, and a hand drawn banner and card.  The fizz seemed to go to my head immediately. 

And that still wasnt the end of it because who shows up unannounced (as she had done back in Alston, Cumbria) - Lyndsay and family!  Was totally dazed now, I can't thank them and Andy and Bella enough for being there at that moment it really made it special, as did the messages I was receiving from Martin, Andy and Steve at work, and of course the folks, whilst I walked those last miles today.

Fatigue has really kicked in now - I'm in a hotel in Penzance and already in bed at 8.30pm and my head is spinning a bit (not through alcohol) so if this post isn't making sense that's possibly why.  

I had planned 78 days for this walk and pretty much arrived to where I'd planned to be each of those days, sometimes reaching campsites and B&Bs that I'd booked months ago, how the hell I got away with that I don't know but I was celebrating arriving at these places each day and it removed a lot of stress for me knowing where I needed to get to each day.

Cheers all!

CW-LE: Another weekend, another storm!

Overlooking Mawgan Porth, loving the colours.  That was yesterday (Sunday 23rd July) making my slow way to Newquay as the dregs of the storm flew by in the still-strong winds but man it was so much better than the day before's experience which had been a bitch.

The journey on from Bude started easily enough, a big day (21 miles - though having met Adam with his Strava the miles I'd measured on a map were conservative compared to miles actually logged).  The ups and downs grew larger but were fun.  I didnt expect a walk on the beach here (though that isn't easy either with a pack).  

I got down to the pretty (if not too pretty!) Boscastle feeling energised, grabbed a beer and supplies at a Nisa store, learned that my Scottish accent pronounced the names of some of the places here better than many English, and eventually climbed up to Little Clifden campsite, Halgabron, near the more famous Tintagel, pitched up and relaxed.

The next day the rain didnt stop, I got the tent packed early and continued South/West with rain already being driven into face but it would get a lot worse.  No photos today as there was no point and camping again so saving phone battery anyway.  The mudclaws had long become mudflats so the at times downs were as slow as the ups.  I overdid it this day as I was soaked through (gotetex pro? not anymore!) and trying to get it the unpleasantness over ASAP.  I cut corners where I could, was cheered up at Port Issac as it was such a lovely historic place but the girls serving coffee at Noah's were just so cheery and it was infectious, after more soggy miles I got another coffee at Polzeath to warm up as much as anything else - surfers didnt seem to care in their wetsuits, got real-life kudos for doing what I was doing (I lived in Australia long enough to know what "that's sick" meant - but any interpretation probably applies), and defo drew strength from the others out walking their dogs etc in the storm (yes, it was) even though I was now shivering and in dire need of shelter.  Another guy stopped me from walking into Rock and saved me a lot of time by explaining the ferry over to Padstow went from below where I stood at low tide - and there it was.  A couple were running across the sand with their baby in buggy to get the ferry and so I ran across the sand with oversized kitbag and got onto the ferry just in time (there were more running but the situation was dire).  Padstow was gorgeous even with the rain hammering it horizontally.  Went into a pub for another warming coffee then found Dennis Cove campsite, by nowI was visibly shivering.  The girl at recpeption asked where Id come from and when I answered she wanted me to just pitch up get warmed up and deal with payment later and asked whether or not I needed anything including a dry jumper!

The camp pitch was sheltered - awesome - but given the water was flowing upwards out from drains and forming rivulets down the streets of Padstow, understandably I was about to camp on grass that was submerged as soon as your foot (or tent) was placed on it.  Remarkably for me I stayed positive throughout this experience - other people gave me energy - enough to justify running back into town for a bottle of shiraz and some comfort food.  The tent's ground sheet is now worn and couldn't deal with it but my sleeping mat kept me and my sleeping bag safe and warm.

Good sleep was had.

Next day was an improving picture so the photos start again (when it was sunny). 

Legs were not happy with me, very little energy generally, I think I had pushed too hard and fortunately had planned a full rest day at Newquay where I am now and have 2 nights here.  Laundry done professionally (it was soaked and it all stunk of my socks), Cornish Pasty had, a short spell of better weather tomorrow forecast so I'm hoping to make the most of it and my rest, and put a decent day in tomorrow (further than originally planned) and enjoy whilst I can!  Because when the sun shines here (and you can see stuff) it is gorgeous.

CW-LE: Cornwall!

Today (Thursday 20th July) I entered Cornwall, and felt a great sense of achievement, as I always wanted to visit Cornwall but never had, until today, arriving by foot from Scotland.

Going back to Ilfracombe, I was able to enjoy another easy day (14 miles) in kinder weather and relished the extra time this allowed me to chat in Grampus Inn, Lee, with a chap Richard, discussing cycle touring and long distance walking over a couple beers - he wants to do this journey next year.

Then on around Morte Pt to the surf beach of Woolacombe and then up to Little Roadway Farm to camp, and an awesome campsite it was with a shop that had everything you may need as a camper - lots of local produce to including traybakes that were brick-sized (e.g., 1000 calorie caramel shortbread).

On a mission to get a replacement raincover for rucksack, did a fast large day to Barnstaple arriving 3pm,  first 2 outdoor shops sold out of them on Saturday (funny that), but Millets had a really cheap one that would do absolutely fine for the remaining 10 days to Land's End.

Next day was shorter and felt really chilled again, passed woman in her tractor blasting out the Wurzells, had an awesome brunch at a cafe with chilled music playing, grabbed a pint at Instow - the ferry to Appledore didnt run until 5.30pm so walked down river to Bideford and glad I did - awesome place.  Stocked up with camping food for next 2 days.

Got to Westacott Farm just before the rain hit - the rain continued hitting into the night.  

Next day was glorious though, started with very rough coast path with steep ups and downs on slippery red mud, brambles grabbing the pack and my clothes on occasion.  As the miles passes the skies gradually cleared, the path improved and I caught up with an inspirational and really sound guy Adam who was doing an epic epic for a cancer hospice stared in j o groats in April and walked across to Cape Wrath then Scottish National Trail and then Pennine Way, across to Chester then Welsh Coast Path - Averaging 25 miles a day (no rest) and continuing round coast until finishing at Buckingham Palace next month, jusy incredible.

So spent whole day chatting as we walked around Hartland Point where the coast swings 90 degrees Southwards.  Camped at Stoke Barnton campsite after a couple beers at Hartland Quay.

Today (walking to Bude) I'd been warned about by so many SWCP walkers coming the other way, and to be fair it was probably the most ascent/descent in a day since Shropshire, Offa's Dyke.  But stunning.  At B&B, some laundry done, more supplies as 2 nights camping ahead.  Weather looking poor for weekend but I'm ok about it now I feel equipped again.

CW-LE: Ilfracombe

The above picture is Fore St., Ilfracombe.  Unplanned stop here - yellow wind warning wasn't joking, I've struggled the last couple of days!  Not so much physically but the driving rain squalls and battering by the wind has taken its toll - I lost my rucksack raincover on Foreland Point before dropping to the shelter of Lynmouth, at a run!  

The Soutb West Coast Path started dramatically and beautifully for me at least, I was delighted to reach this milestone - the start of the SWCP at Minehead.

Was buzzing with enthusiasm as I arrived at Porlock where I'd stay the night.

The storm hit the next day (Friday).and met office warning was in place into Saturday.  Fortunately most of my day was sheltered in trees and by the coastal topography.  But I made my stupid mistake at Foreland Pt, having not secured the raincover in spite of the warning gusts that I could barely stand in never mind walk.  Holding onto poles was hard enough!

Camped at the sheltered Heddon Valley campsite by Hunters Inn after 21miles, only one daft enough to be camping.

Next day was shorter (13.5miles), again the wind and rain made it tough (esp descending from the 318m Great Hangman, highest point on SWCP) but in between there were lovely spells of sunshine which I made the most of whilst sheltered at Coombe Martin - enjoying a sandwich overlooking the small beach.

Passed a campsite where a couple guys were in hysterics trying to abort camp - their tent was being contorted ridiculously by gusts, their wind break and barbeque still standing but unused.  I arrived safely if soggily at Ilfracombe 1pm after just 13.5miles - checked into room at 2pm and can rest up and be grateful I changed my plans!  Shorter day tomorrow but camping in rain again and the tent's groundsheet is no longer repelling the water beneath, sadly.  Fingers crossed the weather sorts its arse out.

CW-LE: Quantock Hills

Was grateful for the company of Andy who walked 64 miles over 3 days with me!  And Sarah & Bella whilst in Bristol, much appreciated.  Lost my walking poles - had a fair idea where I probably left them.  Andy said "need to walk the dog anyway we can go look up there if you like".  We found them folded up near Severn Beach.  Result!

Andy joined me on the walk to Clevedon where I stayed Sunday.

We arrived to the pub just as a downpour started.  

Next day I followed the "Strawberry Line" down to the Mendips then followed Mendip Trail West to Brean, then on to B&B.  Weather iffy.

Then onwards through Somerset by beach to Burnham.

Lots of interactions with cows today - had to use poles on 3 occasions to get young bullock, then whole field's herd that surrounded me (think stubbornness overcame fear and poles put to use).  Then on road a herd came towards me but they were being driven for TB test!

Lots of industrial walking through Bridgwater, finally escaping back to peaceful country lanes beneath Quantock Hills where I camped for night.

Then a brighter and overdue-shorter day over Quantock ridge to White Horse Inn, chill out time.  Fantastic place.

CW-LE: Bristol

Continued on Offa's Dyke via Knighton (camped at Panpwnton farm campsite), Kington and Gladestry.  Incredible new views opening up to the East, South and West, including the Black Mountains that I'd be traversing the next day.   Camping for the night at Viv & Adrian's Offa's Dyke Lodge Retreat,  in the Welsh hamlet of Gladestry, where I also got fed!  Really good sleep in tent again.

The next day was special, visiting Hay on Wye, getting new hiking socks and coffee before heading up the side of Hay Bluff and along the Black Mountains ridge where it became cold and wet and I was wearing my beanie again for first time since North of my house in May!

Dropped down off the ridge to camp at Llanthony Priory - defo a highlight of my whole trip.  gorgeous wee cellar bar where I met Colin so was able to pay him for camping so I could get away early the next morning without hanging about.

Then it was on towards Monmouth, I camped at Hendre Orchard Campsite, another great low key site and great sleep.  Nothing much there tho so ended up running into Monmouth for food and drink.

Next morning I met up with Andy at Monmouth and we would spend the next 2 days walking together to his house in the centre of Bristol - a large walk in its own right! 

It was a tough day walking to Chepstow, not enough places to stop but when we finally did get a beer at the community-run Rising Sun pub N of Chepstow it transformed the walk from a route march to a leisurely amble once again!  Chepstow was impresive.  Castle, quaint streets, pubs, and The Coach and Horses pub was perfect place to stay for a good night's sleep after a few beers and meal in town.

The next day, walking to Bristol, ended up being 40km (25 miles) according to Andy's Strava.  Mostly because they'd shut our chosen route (bikepath route 4 and severn way).

We broke the long day down into strategic pub stops, it was 27degC so pint stops involved water & lager mostly.

Arriving in Bristol felt like a big achievement for both of us, and once at the harbour the strategic stops became more frequent and we eventually arrived at the house at 11.27pm after a very long distance pub crawl!

 

CW-LE: Wales!

Apologies for delays updating - been camping and saving batteries!  The start of July involved a few days where I spent parts of it walking in both England and Wales at some point.  from Nantwich it was one of my longest days (25 miles) to an idyllic campsite at Colemere, via Llangollen Canal and  a short diversion to Welshampton for great food and beer.

 

Then onwards down the recently restored (W.I.P.) Montgomery Canal into Wales at Llanymynech, then first night in Wales at Four Crosses.  Lovely rolling scenery the next day on to Montgomery, s gorgeous wee village and pub (The Dragon) and a great night's sleep apart from a 3am fire alarm evacuating the hotel!

The next day was mostly spent in Shropshire, a bit of a rollercoaster climbing up and down to 400m regularly..

Impressed with Offa's Dyke Path so far - and how much it keeps true to Offa's Dyke which is often visible on the landscape rolling into the distance.